How Often Do You Think About The Middle Ages?
exploring the intersection of history and fantasy, dressing as escapism, and a round-up of vintage and secondhand treasures for the 2024 medieval revival
This is a long one but I promise it’s filled with lots of goodness — please be sure to hit “expand” or use your Substack app to read in its entirety!
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Once upon a time, being a nerd was deeply uncool. From the kid in thick glasses asking for extra homework and dominating the chess club to the kid obsessed with dragons, wizards, and comics, a wide variety of dorks have been bullied for their niche interests since probably-most-likely the dawn of modern times.
Sometime not all that long ago, (I’m marking the genesis the dramatic rise to power of the Marvel Cinematic Universe) being a “nerd” became less of a schoolyard slur and more of a distinctive, elite badge of honor. In recent years, Comic-Con has become harder to get tickets to than a Taylor Swift concert, Daenerys has become a top baby name, and Dungeons and Dragons has reached its peak popularity since being created in the early 1970s. While the nerds of our forefathers may have made peace with their social status, the revenge of the fantasy nerd is upon us— and they’re wearing head to toe chainmail.
While I am usually one to quickly scroll away from any TikTok breaking down the “must have” elements of the hippest coolest niche-aesthetic new micro-trend, I couldn’t help but notice the recent influx of “Weirdeval Girl” (that’s weird + medieval) popping up on my FY page. Given that the rest of my feed is edits of Lord of the Rings and House of the Dragon, it honestly, for once, fit right in… an influx of creators breaking down the rise of the ~cool girl~ Middle Ages revival — chainmail detailing, mixed metals, lace-up corsets, puffy sleeve blouses, velvet capes, long dresses, brown leather, bonnets and snoods, etc etc etc.
It’s time to grab your cloak and wizard hat, we’re going back in time!
A (Very) Brief History Lesson
If there’s one thing I’ve been terrified to discover, it’s that a decent amount of folks have no general idea of when anything in history ever happened. I have a distinct memory of a girl I went to high school with thinking the movie Grease took place in the 1930s and I found that so deeply disturbing I’ve probably thought about it once a year ever since.
Early Middle Ages (The Dark Ages): c. 500–1000
High Middle Ages: c. 1000–1300
Late Middle Ages: c. 1300–1500
Renaissance: c. 1300–1600
While the years seemingly overlap, the Renaissance is not considered medieval times but the direct period that happened after it — they are not the same.
Medieval Times: characterized by the feudal system (how society was structured), the dominance of the Catholic Church, and the emergence of knightly culture.
The Renaissance: marked a revival of interest in classical art, literature, and learning from ancient Greece and Rome. Also known for advancements in art, science, and humanism — a bridge between the Middle Ages and the modern era.
In case you haven’t figured it out, almost everything at this point has been done already, including cosplaying the simpler, quieter life outside the confines of rampant capitalism and tyrannical politics.
The medieval revival of the late 60s and early 70s was a counterculture movement filled with a healthy dose of nostalgia, rebellion, and escapism. Set up against the backdrop of the Vietnam War, civil rights, and growing environmental awareness, the longing for a simpler, more communal lifestyle spread quickly amongst young people looking to rage against the machine. Trading their tucked in shirts and denim for flowing robes, tunics, chainmail and flower crowns, the youth of the 60s changed the shape of both pop culture and fashion forever by giving a middle finger to the etiquette and expectations of society.
I’ll try to keep the history lesson brief, but many of the trends we’ve loved in our millennial lifetime emerged from this movement whether it be bohemian fashion, art films or rock n’ roll music. While everything comes back around eventually, it’s interesting to watch this new Medieval Revival happen right here, right now — a time I think most of us feel is long overdue for a renaissance of renewed peace and humanity as we continue to circle the drain of late stage capitalism, climate disaster, and political mess (to put it lightly.)
Speaking of brave new worlds, let’s talk about Tolkien’s Middle-earth — a key instrumental piece in blending fantasy with a revival of Medieval ideals. His fictional realm offered a refuge, sparking the imagination and creativity of those seeking identity during uncertain times. Wearing looks that felt otherworldly provided a sense of liberation and belonging, often helping marginalized individuals challenge prejudices and build community. His work coming to popularity in the 70s would inspire everything from the creation of Dungeons and Dragons to some of Led Zeppelin’s most iconic songs.
(a personal fav)
As someone who sought solace and comfort in the friendship of the fellowship to escape the childhood trauma of home life as a kid, the intersection of fantasy and history feels like a peak important element as we enter this new Medieval Revival. It’s time to get whimsical — paint on the pointy ears and don a cloak to run to the grocery store! Fashion yourself a diadem headpiece for date night! Drape yourself in velvet! Dare I say, perhaps even rock a doublet and breeches?
I often lament that my personal style is not what I want it to be because of fear. Fear of being perceived, judged, looked at, etc etc. For years I drew sketches in notebooks of velvet dress with flowing sleeves that would make Arwen herself envious — but the Time of the Nerds™️ had not yet come! I was mocked mercilessly for having collages of fantasy worlds glued on my school binders, the cherry on top to the fact I preferred spending my weekends role playing Pirates of the Caribbean online in Neopets guilds that were definitely filled with 30 year old men pretending to be teenagers rather than going to class birthday parties. I didn’t realize how formative those years were in stoking this fear of looking weird.
Be! Weird! Look. Weird. weird weird weird. As I sipped my mead and people watched at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival this summer, I was suddenly overcome with a tingly sensation of peace (and probably drunkenness.) The kids just might be alright! Folks of every gender letting their freak (she says very, very lovingly!) flags fly in a safe space of weirdos. People showing off their handcrafted costumes, sharing handmade souvenirs and making friends with other people who share their same, strangely wonderful weird interest. There is liberation to be found when you show up vulnerably as your true self. What can often start as escapism can often lead to radical self discovery. I left feeling a bittersweet twinge of jealousy and comfort, inspired to finally embrace the stares and judgement but sad it took this many years to accept and embrace.
Life is short and all that jazz — wear the cape.
And to maybe wrap all this rambling up in a nice little bow, let’s bring it back to luxury fashion. Designers have drawn inspiration from the Middle Ages for years upon years upon years, reworking silhouettes, textiles and intricate hand-stitched details from history to accompany modern trends. If you’re wondering how the heck you’re going to wear some of the wildly fabulous finds I am about to present to you, I would highly recommend a stroll through the Vogue Runway archives - they are rich with ideas for blending the antique with the new and for maybe making that one-of-a-kind weird thing look just right.
So, whether we’re using this reflection on the past as a signal of fear for an uncertain future, or as gesture to reignite our creativity and imagination - one things for certain: we will be dressed! to! impress!
There are so many nooks and crannies of goodness to discover in researching the past. If you’re looking to broaden your knowledge on these periods of time from the comfort of your couch, I would highly recommend clicking through some of the links in the footnotes. From footage taken at the first 1963 Renaissance Faire to museum archives filled with high resolution photos of priceless relics, there’s so much inspiration to glean from the Medieval Period and fantasy worlds they inspired (George RR Martin was inspired by both fantasy and history. Game of Thrones was influenced heavily by his love of Tolkien and the War of the Roses.)
I could yap on for hours about this but my brain rot is absolutely *festering* this week!!! The way I struggled to put two concise thoughts together 😵💫 hopefully this did not feel like a boring college dissertation or the rantings of a lunatic! This is such a nuanced topic that feeds into the subcultures, counterculture, music, film, media, etc etc etc that we know today and I have so many more thoughts and feelings about it - maybe a part II someday?
On that note, onto the goods!
henry cuir leather top handle bag ($299.99, buy on eBay) (shoutout to Duck Fat for introducing me to this designer and treasure trove of leather goodies!)
renaissance gemstone brooch ($44.55)
vintage medieval knights sleeveless blouse (vintage fem m, $102.50)
metal top handle purse ($39.35)
kaat tilley green corset dress (fem m, very good condition, $650.25)
rejina pyo lace up boot (fem 6, very good condition, $78.75 on sale)
vintage drawstring bloomer pants (vintage xl, $185)
vintage gunne sax dress (vintage fem xs, $224.99, buy on eBay) (another option here)
bottega veneta lace up wedges (fem 7, very good condition, $67.50 on sale)
vintage knight novelty blouse (vintage fem s, $73.86 on sale)
back laced boned corset (see measurements, $82)
hinged finger armor ring (sz 8.25, $276.80 on sale) (this is so weird and cool!!)
isabel marant belt (size m, very good condition, $105 on sale)
vintage sword brooch ($54.50)
vintage blue velvet bonnet hat ($18, buy on eBay)
carolina herrera puff sleeve blouse (fem s, good condition, $137.50 on sale)
leather chain belt ($19.95, buy on eBay) (expensive but very cool alt here)
black velvet embellished opera coat (2xl - 3xl, $355)
etro knee high leather boots (fem 6, excellent condition, $237.50) (these! are! insane!)
corduroy lace up popover shirt (vintage masc l, $128, buy on eBay)
1960s metallic brocade dress (vintage fem s/m, $178, buy on eBay)
paco rabanne gold mini dress (fem m, very good condition, $287 on sale)
henry beguelin leather tote bag ($164.10)
tapestry boxy jacket (fem xl, $24.95, buy on eBay)
henry cuir leather riding boots (fem 6, $87.99, buy on eBay)
manolo blahnik mules (fem 7.5, very good condition, $172.50)
etro tapestry coat (fem m, very good condition, $217 on sale)
isabel marant embroidered blouse (fem m, excellent condition, $116 on sale)
henry beguelin leather belt (size m, very good condition, $85.50 on sale)
striped lace up corset top (fem s, $58, buy on eBay)
art deco beaded skull cap ($144.51) (she’s a wounded bird but is so cool - someone make a replica of this, please!)
vintage neiman marcus minaudiere purse ($245) (I’ve had this saved forever- someone buy her, she’s out of my current budget!!)
vintage purple velvet bell sleeve dress (see measurements, $133.95)
corduroy lace up corset (fem s, $112.50)
falconiere shop handmade chainmail gloves ($410) (as worn by chappell roan at the vmas)
black cotton bloomer pants (vintage l, $75)
brocade feather hat ($24)
gold mesh chain belt (30-32 inch, $21 on sale)
the row white knee high boots (fem 9.5, good condition, $580 on sale)
alaia suede studded boots (fem 6, very good condition, $116)
As always, linking things makes my brain hurt so please let me know if something is not correct or is maybe missing lol
Thank you for being here - love you forever ✨
Until next time,
xo,
G
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This post is crazy good. The inspo is perfection.I think about the middle ages often, mostly because my eyesight is so terrible that I would have wandered into the woods and died as a teen. I also think about it any time I take antibiotics 😬 definitely would have died from a bug bite in my twenties without them
so often that I decided I might as well write an essay - I can’t wait to read this!